Guilin – Part 4 – Pagodas in Paradise

It’s beginning to get colder here in Guiyang.  Both Dave and I are wearing sweaters and slippers, and we’ve pulled out some extra blankets for the bedroom.  The Chinese government doesn’t provide heating for anyone below a certain imaginary line they’ve drawn across the country, so in Guiyang, we don’t have indoor heating.  We were lucky to find several space heaters that had been left behind by previous tenants of our old apartment, so when we moved this weekend, the heaters came with us.  We were also smart, and brought along slippers with us.  Mine are the nice fur-lined moccasins that my dad got for me for Christmas 2 years ago.  Unfortunately, the fur on them has seen better days (life with cats!), but they’ll help a great deal with keeping my toes warm through the cold months.  (Also, Dad, if you’re reading this…I could use a new pair :p  Size 8!!!).

See...could totally use a new pair :P   Also, this is our flooring.  It's basically stone tile, that's laying on top of concrete.  It gets chilly!!
See…could totally use a new pair 😛
Also, this is our flooring. It’s basically stone tile, that’s laying on top of concrete. It gets chilly!!

Our final day and a half in Guilin was most definitely not ‘slipper weather’.  We developed some well defined tan lines in Guangxi (they only got darker in Xiamen), and the sun was very welcomed, after 2 months of clouds in Guiyang.

Guiyang Clouds
Guiyang on an average day. In August, the city’s peek month for sunshine, roughly 41% of the the month sees sunshine. In January, Guiyang’s cloudiest month, the number dips down to 12%. For comparison, Winnipeg’s peak is around 62%, and it’s lowest average is 41%…we get a lot of clouds here!!!

After the Rice Terrace tour, Emily dropped us off downtown once more, where we said goodbye and hugged our wonderful tour guide.  We exchanged phone numbers and WeChat IDs (WeChat is a little like BBM mixed with FB).  Since then, she’s sent me several messages, telling us what a great job we did painting our apartment, and even sending me links to job postings in Guilin city.  Oh, how I wish I could make that happen!!!

Guilin City
Yup! I could sure handle living here!

We spent our last evening in Guilin walking around downtown once more.  This time, we walked down to the Sun and Moon Pagodas, one of Guilin’s most famous sites.  They are located right on the river, and are lit up beautifully, so they were really worth seeing.  The river path was gorgeous and clean.  People don’t spit as much in Guilin (it’s bad for tourism; the city’s main source of income), and it seems like fewer people there smoke as well.  We enjoyed our walk along the river, as the sun went down, talking about our day in the fields, and enjoying the view as the pagodas began to light up.

Beautiful paths leading to the river.  The gardens are well kept here.
Beautiful paths leading to the river. The gardens are well kept here.
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Our first clear view of the pagodas. The one with the orange glow is the sun pagoda, and the slightly smaller one is the moon.
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A very neat shot of the Moon Pagoda that Dave captured 🙂

I have to remember to include pictures of us in these places, or you might not believe we actually got to see them!!!

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I love the contrast with the sky in this picture!
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A closer shot of the Moon Pagoda. It’s very elaborate

We spent a few more hours in the market after our walk along the river, buying a few more Christmas presents and enjoying some Guilin style bbq.  There is more seafood available in Guilin than there is in Guiyang so we definitely took advantage of that!  As we were leaving the restaurant, we noticed a strange looking meat, wrapped around a skewer.  At first, I thought it might be snake, so we asked the waiter.  He looked bashful and told us it was “Zhu Rou” (pork meat).  I’d seen many pork parts at bbqs in the past, but I didn’t recognize this one, so I pointed to my stomach and said “from here?”.  He looked at me bashfully once more, pointed at Dave’s mid section, and looked away very quickly.  The Chinese believe that whatever part of the animal you eat, the better you will become in that area.  They eat brain to be smarter.  They eat eyeball to have better vision.  They eat pork penis, because well…you know…We did not try it, as we were very full.  I imagine Dave would have probably wanted to, but I’m not upset that we missed the chance!

Pork Penis
This, my friends, is pig dick on a stick!!! (sorry moms…it was too perfect of a joke not to include!)

The next day, we head downtown once more, but the experience was very different from the previous nights’.  It seemed that overnight, quiet and beautiful Guilin was invaded…by tourists!  The buses were ‘standing room only’ and the streets were so full that it took ages to get anywhere.  Everywhere we looked there were vendors selling food, drinks and cheap merchandise.  It was all very overwhelming, so we found our way to Elephant Trunk Park, where we hoped there would be fewer people (the high admission price kept many tourists at bay).

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A band playing in the middle of the sidewalk. We were able to snap a picture before the crowd got around them and made them impossible to see

Elephant Trunk Park, I must say, was a bit of a let down.  It’s main attraction, a large rock formation that’s shaped like an elephant (I guess?) was really the coolest thing to see.  Still, it is the most famous scene to see in Guilin, so I’m happy we went.  And to be fair, I honestly think anything would have disappointed me after seeing the mountains along the Li River, followed by the LongJi Rice Terraces!

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Elephant Trunk Hill
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The entrance to the park. These trees are actually made of concrete
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One of the coolest sights to see there… a Lao Wei!!!! These guys asked for a picture with Dave, so I snapped one as well 😉

There were a few other things to see in the park.  There were a large number of parade floats set up around certain areas of the park.  Some of them were quite well done.  Some of them were in some very strange positions.   And a lot of them made no sense at all.

As I said...some were quite nice...
As I said…some were quite nice…
Some were in questionable positions...
Some were in questionable positions…
And some were downright confusing...
And some were downright confusing…

And thus concludes my telling of our four day stay in Guangxi Province!  Next time, I will be writing about our stay in Xiamen; my first home in China!!

The Life of the Lao Wei

China is an interesting place to be for a foreigner.

First, let me begin by asking you:  what do you know about China?  Really?  The fact that dog is eaten here may have popped into your mind, and perhaps you pictured deep fried ‘honey garlic’ something or other as well.  Maybe you thought about the Great Wall.  But really, for a country with 5000 years of written history, many North Americans  know very little about life in the Orient.

Many of my friends and family assumed that I would be going to a country with more advanced technology than we have in Canada.  Many people also assumed that I would be eating nothing but rice and chicken feet. But in reality, China is an incredibly diverse country.  There are hundreds of local languages here, an incredibly diverse geology and every city has it’s own specialty cuisine.  In short, China is so much more than you can imagine.

There are over 50 ethnic groups in China.  They all have their own traditions, holidays, cuisine and language.  How's THAT for diversity!!
There are over 50 ethnic groups in China. They all have their own traditions, holidays, cuisine and language. How’s THAT for diversity!!

But as little as you know about China, China knows less about you!

Eight years ago, when I lived on the east coast, in a beautiful little city called Xiamen, I was stared at daily.  I had people point at me and yell “Lao Wei!” (foreigner) so that their friends might notice in time and get a look at me too.  I had people come up to me and ask for my photo.  More often still, I caught people sneaking photos of me.  There were times when an interested man or woman would come up to me as I shopped, pulling things out of my cart to see what the strange ‘lao wai’ was purchasing.  Everywhere I went in Xiamen, I was pointed at, shouted at and stared at.  Whether I was taking a 2am stroll (the only time I found quiet in that small city of 2 million people), or walking up the path to my apartment, I was constantly met with stares and pointing.  And of course, the ever-present sound of the words “Lao Wai!!!!”

Beautiful Xiamen City.  My home in 2005/2006
Beautiful Xiamen City. My home in 2005/2006

I imagined it would be different in Guiyang.  8 years have passed, and thousands of teachers have arrived and left the country since I departed in 2006.  Nearly every young person here now speaks at least a little English.  EAL teachers are everywhere, working for private training centers (like I am), for private schools and even at public schools.  There are easily a hundred of us in Guizhou province alone.

I live in the capital of Guizhou province; Guiyang
I live in the capital of Guizhou province; Guiyang

And if the presence of white teachers isn’t enough, Western culture has also permeated life here.   Guiyang has several KFC restaurants, 2 Pizza Huts, 3 Walmarts, a Starbucks and H&M, just to name a few.  English is everywhere!  In their music, on their signs and on their T-shirts.  Any company who aims to have a ‘cool’ image must have English in their name, even if no one within the company speaks a word of the language.  People here are obsessed with Taylor Swift and Justin Bieber, and today I even heard “Criminal”, by Brittany Spears, blasting from a lingerie store.  8 years ago, this was not the case.  Sure, there was a Walmart and KFC in Xiamen, but seeing English on signs and T-shirts was hardly an every day occurrence.

We have a Dairy Queen and a Baskin Robs by the school where I work
We have a Dairy Queen and a Baskin Robs by the school where I work

Yet, the sight of a foreigner is still shocking for the majority of Chinese people.

A few weeks ago, I was driving my scooter to school, when a bus pulled up beside me.  I had to focus on the traffic and ignore the commotion that my presence had caused in that bus.  Windows were rolled down, and people were shouting and laughing and saying ‘Hello!’.  I sometimes feel like an un-talented celebrity when this happens!  (Perhaps this is how the Kardashians feel?)  When Dave and I went and visited QianLing Hill Park, we were in as many pictures as we took!  Even the monkeys seemed to think we were interesting and strange!

A wild monkey, staring at the Lao Wei!  (Lao Wei is 'foreigner'.  We hear it everywhere we go!  We are treated like celebrities because there are so few of us in Guiyang)
He’s looking at me, thinking to himself “Lao Wei!!!!”

On good days, this isn’t an issue.  I laugh and smile and respond to their calls with ‘hello’.  A simple wave, or greeting in response to their excitement usually results in further excitement.  “Did the Lao Wei just say hello to ME!!!  Oh My God!!!”.  I waved at a child who was staring at me from a restaurant this week.  Her entire family waved back.  Some of them even stood up to get a better view of me!  And this, I should add, was in Zhong Tian Garden, where I live.  There are between 8 and 10 EAL teachers who live in this area, yet it’s still exciting for them to see one of us.

On bad days, this aspect of life in China is less enjoyable.  Being stared at while you are fighting back tears after a particularly difficult day, is not a pleasant feeling.  Having a crowd form around you, while you struggle to chain your scooter to a gate because it has a flat tire, is exasperating.  There are some days where I want to shout: “What’s wrong with you!  Didn’t your mothers ever teach you that it’s rude to point!!!”. But I don’t.  I know that even if I did, they probably wouldn’t understand me anyway, so I keep my head down and try to blend in with the masses.  I’m vertically challenged so that’s easy, but it’s certainly harder for some of the tall teachers at Interlingua.

Still, in spite of these bad days, I’d say life in Guiyang is more interesting than upsetting.  More often than not, people here are curious, but kind.  We’ve had people bring out dishes for us that other customers in the restaurant have paid for us to try.  Most people thrilled when I greet them in Mandarin, and embarrassed but excited when I respond to their ‘Lao Wei!!!’ with a ‘hello’ and a coy smile. (Yes, I know that you are talking about me…).

I consider myself lucky to be in China in 2014, during such a time of growth.  In the last 8 years, many things have changed: I now see English everywhere I go, I hear English Music in cars and in stores and I can shop at H&M (I can’t even do that in Winnipeg!).  But in some ways, China continues to be its cut-off-from-the-rest-of-the-world self.  The people here still marvel at the foreigner as though they are something special and interesting.  I can’t help but wonder whether this will still be the case in 8 years from now.

M.