Zhenyuan: Guizhou’s Eastern Gem – Part 2

This weekend was a little exhausting, but still managed to be a lot of fun!  I think I’m FINALLY getting over my 4 week cold (the joys of teaching my little germ infested monkeys!), and I finally got to participate in the school’s cooking activity Sunday night!  I made deviled eggs, Guiyang style.  I substituted paprika for La Jiao and boy were they a hit!  I had a couple of hecklers in the front row (kids can be so cruel!!) telling me they smelled bad and were going to be gross, but BOTH of them tried coming back for thirds, so I was pretty pleased with myself!!

The event involved all of the teachers cooking western dishes for the students; A brilliant marketing activity on the part of my boss! Not only did the kids learn some new words, but they got to taste western food they’d never heard of before. A full western experience!
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My sous-chef, Maggie, and I. She is a teacher at the JinYang branch, and she is lovely 🙂 Behind me, you can see a fellow Canadian Lao Wai…I keep telling him his face is going to get stuck that way….

As much as we would have loved to spend another weekend in another corner of Guizhou province, Dave and I opted to spend this Monday and Tuesday recovering our health and tackling the daunting task that is ‘cleaning our kitchen’.  We still haven’t gotten around to cleaning it since we moved in a month and a half ago.  It took nearly a week to get the rest of the place sanitized, and we needed some pretty heavy duty degreasers to get the layers of filth off the walls, so until now, we’ve just kept the door shut and avoided that room.

Of course, cooking on Sunday made me miss having a kitchen SO much that we’ve decided to make that our project tomorrow.  So here I am, doing the next best thing to actually traveling: writing about traveling!

After a gorgeous and relaxing night in Zhenyuan Ancient town, we set off for our River Cruise Tuesday morning.  A van picked us up at the hotel at 8:30am and we traveled to the Wuyang River dam with 2 other couples (both Chinese), which is located about an hour from the Ancient town.  The road there was bumpy and pretty scary at some points, but we got there in one piece, perhaps thanks to our Chinese friends in the van, who continually told the driver to slow down because they didn’t want the Lao Wai to think badly of Chinese roads or drivers!  One of them spoke English, which was great.  I’m very proud of the amount of Mandarin I can speak (Dave told me about a month ago that he was SHOCKED when we got here…all of a sudden I could speak a 3rd language!), but it’s so nice getting a bit of a break now and then as well!

The dam where our cruise started
The dam where our cruise started
A pagoda with Guizhou mountains in the background :)
The pagoda where our boat docked

We were the only La Wai on the cruise, which was both nice and a bit of a nuisance.  It was nice being the only westerners because so many of the people we’ve met on cruises in China have been very closed minded and extremely judgmental of the Chinese.  But on the other hand, because we were the only light skinned occupants on the boat, we became a tourist attraction ourselves.  Although the views from the boat were terrific, people seemed to be more interested in snapping photos with US…instead of with the scenery.  We obliged for a few people (the ones who had been in the van with us), but then hid away from the crowds, where it was warmer and where we could enjoy the views, just the two of us 🙂

The most famous rock formation near Zhenyuan.
The most famous rock formation near Zhenyuan.
Beautiful Guizhou mountains, and our boat's flag :)
Beautiful Guizhou mountains, and our boat’s flag 🙂

Roughly 3 and a half hours after the van picked us up, we were dropped off at our hotel, where we had to check out.  The hotel’s owner was kind enough to hold our luggage for us while we walked through the ancient town once more.  This time, we viewed the south side of the Wuyang River during the day time, which turned out to be just as beautiful of an experience as it was at night!

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The gorgeous pagoda we’d visited the day before
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Steps lead into the water all over the ancient town
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My favorite shot of the whole trip. I nearly dropped my camera in the river while taking it…but it was worth the scare!
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This was the first time we’d felt sunshine in about a month. We were so excited that I quickly snapped a picture! The sun is a wonderful thing!!!
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We had supper on the other side of this bridge the night before. Like I said…just as beautiful as during the day 🙂

Eventually, we found the old city wall, that was built around 2000 years ago, and has since been restored.  As the sun shone down on us, we walked along the clean path and enjoyed the gardens and the sounds of the river.

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We took the north side of the river back to the hotel and enjoyed such a contrast in environment!  After our serene walk along the old wall, we were met with the hustle and bustle of a Chinese city.

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The archway leading back into old town
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A construction site. Notice the lack of any safety gear…
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Chickens…they’re everywhere. Today, in Guiyang, we saw a woman carrying a live on in a bag over her shoulder…oh China!
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There were children playing under this mess of wires. I can’t help but cringe, and wonder what the stats are on random electrocutions due to an insane lack of safety regulations in the country!

 

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Squatter toilets for sale!! Get your squatters here! On discount, today only! Get your squatter toilets here, ladies and gentlemen, you won’t regret it!!

Still, as we wound our way down alleys and smaller streets during our final hour in Zhenyuan, we enjoyed unique sights and absorbed all the ‘new’ we could.  There’s nothing quite like traveling, and I feel so incredibly lucky to be in a situation where I can just pack up for the weekend and experience something like Zhenyuan Ancient Village.  I’m living the dream 🙂

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Another one of my favorite shots from Tuesday. This was the view between two random buildings on the way back to the hotel. Just beautiful.
An alleyway we explored, in search of a hostel we'd seen a sign for.  We have every intention of returning to Zhenyuan (there's so much we didn't have time to do!), and although we'd love to stay at the same place again, a traveler knows that back up plans are a must!
An alleyway we explored, in search of a hostel we’d seen a sign for. We have every intention of returning to Zhenyuan (there’s so much we didn’t have time to do!), and although we’d love to stay at the same place again, a traveler knows that back up plans are a must!
I can't be certain...but I'm pretty sure Bowser is waiting to fight me on the other side of this door....unfortunately for him...he has NO IDEA how many hours I spent learning how to defeat him in my youth!!!
I can’t be certain…but I’m pretty sure Bowser is waiting to fight me on the other side of this door….unfortunately for him…he has NO IDEA how many hours I spent learning how to defeat him in my youth!!!

Thanks again for tuning in, and check back soon!  I still have so many posts to write!

Guilin – Part 2: Yangshuo & Bamboo Rafting

Tea and blogging: a fantastic way to end the day!  After a long day of cleaning the new apartment, it feels nice to sit back and reminisce about our trip to Guilin 🙂

Tonight we are enjoying some red tea.  It has a sharper taste and a darker colour
Tonight we are enjoying some red tea. It has a sharper taste and a darker colour

After the cruise, our tour guide lead us into the town of Yangshuo, which is roughly 2 hours away from Guilin.  The small town might not seem like much on the map, but it became a very popular destination for backpackers and tourists in the 1980s and has continued to be popular now.  There are shops everywhere and we were warned by Emily before getting out of the van, that people would try to trick us into spending money on unauthentic products (silk, pearls etc…) and that we should bargain…HARD!  This was great news to me, because Dave and I are a stellar bargaining team 🙂  I won’t go into details because we bought many Christmas presents along this street, but we got several items for as much as 75% less then their original asking price.  Even Emily was impressed, and she’s all about the bargaining!!

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Yangshou’s many shops

After using the washrooms (or as the British like to say: the toilet) and getting some iced coffee at KFC, Emily lead us to the sleepy riverside where a bamboo raft awaited us.  The relaxed scene that greeted us was a fantastic shift from the chaotic atmosphere in Yangshuo.   Soon we found ourselves drifting down the river, enjoying Guangxi’s stunning scenery.

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The colours here were beautiful!
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The backdrop to our rafting adventure

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After enjoying some delicious barbecued fish and a quick bump down a small rapid, we head back to the shore where Emily was waiting for us.  By this point she’d learned that we are more adventurous than her average tourists, but still, she was surprised we’d eaten the fish.  She told me:  “I’ve decided that I consider you both Chinese.  95% of my clients don’t eat the fish.  I’m glad you enjoyed it!”  (and we did…half way home I was still talking about haha!!!).

BBQ Fish

Emily dropped us off downtown and gave us a quick tour of the area, showing us how to get to the night market and giving us tips on where to find the best deals. We spent the rest of the night buying Christmas gifts, having our feet cleaned by fish (a strange experience, but oddly awesome!) and having a nice outdoor dinner by the market.

These little fish eat the dead skin on your feet.  It tickles like CRAZY at first, but once the nerves in your feet calm down, it's pretty cool.  This was definitely the most interesting pedicure I've ever received!
These little fish eat the dead skin on your feet. It tickles like CRAZY at first, but once the nerves in your feet calm down, it’s pretty cool. This was definitely the most interesting pedicure I’ve ever received!
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Guilin’s night market

Emily’s job ended when we arrived back in Guilin, so the extra time she spent showing us around down town was truly above and beyond what she needed to do as our tour guide for the day.  Most guides I’ve had in the past spend their time trying to get to you spend money shopping and telling you to book extra tours (they make commission if you spend money or buy anything at the market).  Emily never once pushed us during either of our days with her, and for that alone she stands out to me as the best guide I’ve had.  More importantly though, she was very friendly and open with us throughout the tour.  We spent hours chatting together on the cruise and on our way to and from the sites she was taking us to see.  She is incredibly thoughtful and even got us our favorite chocolates for the ride back (she knows I like chocolate with nuts in it, and that Dave likes anything that’s made of chocolate…).  She and I exchanged WeChat IDs on the first day (that’s kind of like facebook in China) and have been in touch since our trip.  The best text I received from her was a picture she took while at work: an English school in Guilin was hiring, and she wanted me to apply.  I hope to live there one day so we can become better friends.  She’s really a fantastic person and Dave and I were very fortunate to have her as our guide.

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Our lovely tour guide and her husband

Stay tuned for my next post, where I’ll be writing about the Longshen Rice Terraces, The Sun and Moon pagodas and our last day in Guilin 🙂