Sapa Rice Terraces: Part 1

My next couple of posts will be about our May Holiday trip to the Sapa rice terraces. I’ll be writing as we travel, so I’m not sure how many posts there will be, but I promise some incredible pictures!!

Sapa is located about 6 hours away from Hanoi by bus

I’ve wanted to visit Sapa for years. We visited Vietnam twice before moving here, and we did a great deal of traveling on those trips, but we never made it up to Sapa. This was partly because we had already seen the Longji Rice terraces in Guangxi, China, and partly because there are so many amazing things in Vietnam to see, that you kind of have to pick and choose when your time is limited.

Me in the the Longji Rice terraces, back in 2014. I can’t believe it’s been 10 years!!

Since we saw the LongJi rice terraces in autumn, right before the harvest, we thought it would be grand to see Sapa in spring, while the rice was still young. It’s been a different but equally beautiful experience.

Dave in the terraces. Young rice looks a lot like quack grass

All About Sapa

Geography

Sapa is located 380km North East of Hanoi, very close to the Chinese border. It lies within the Hoàng Liên Son Mountain Range, which is home to Vietnam’s highest peak: Mount Fansipan. The weather is cooler here than in Hanoi, and they even see some snow in winter. In fact, it’s the ONLY place in Vietnam that sees snow.

There are a tonne of dogs in Sapa too and they’re all friendly! It looks like these ones were excited for the snow last winter!

History

The building of Sapa’s rice terraces began more than 300 years ago. 3 ethnic groups moved to the area from what is now China, in search of fertile land.

These ladies are from the Hmong cultural group. Tay and Red Dau minorities are also still present in the area, 300 years after arriving.

Although agriculture in a mountainous region might seem a little confusing to North Americans, in Asia, they found some pretty good work arounds. Instead of the flat farms that we see in the prairies, farms in this area of the world are sometimes built vertically. Terraces are carved out of the mountainside, … kind of like really big stairs. Streams or natural springs are fed into the top of the terraces and water gets trapped on each “step”, allowing for agriculture to flourish.

An up-close view of the terrace “steps” they’re quite big.

Of course, in this kind of farming, you can’t exactly use big combines so everything is done by hand, using hoes, sickles and spades. These tools are often made and maintained by the farmers themselves. Traditional farming practices have been passed on down the generations and still widely used today. When you see the scope of the terraces, keep that in mind….

Now, imagining making those steps, by hand, all the way up a mountainside. And then a bunch of mountainsides…

Crops

Several different types of rice are grown in Sapa. The most common are sticky rice (one of my faves and used a lot in Vietnamese food), fragrant rice (often used in desserts) and black rice (which is very tasty and nutritious too!). There are harvest festivals here where you can get local dishes that involve… You guessed it… Rice!

One of my favourite sticky rice desserts: Banh Da Lon

Although the majority of Vietnam’s rice is grown down south in the Mekong Delta, Sapa is where people flock to see the agriculture in practice. Part of this is because the area is so culturally interesting (I’ll be writing about that later on).

Other crops are grown here too, such as corn, cucumber and peppers, and fruit crops include apples, plums, oranges and more! There is quite a bit of farming here too, and we’ve had to slow down for ducks and cows crossing the road.

Nothing too see here… Just a farmer herding his ducks

240 hectares of space is also used to grow medicinal plants for Vietnam, including the herbs used in Hmong baths (I’ll be writing about that too!). Although the area is famous for its rice, rice is not the only thing to see here!

Getting to Sapa

There are 4 main ways to go to Sapa. By private car is the most expensive, of course. The cheapest way is by motorbike. If we can get our hands on a long distance bike, we might do that yet, but 10 hours on our Honda Visions would be tough.

I love my beautiful red Honda Vision… But that would be a LONG time on her!

The train is the most comfortable ride, because you don’t need to worry about winding roads and bumps, but it was quite a bit more expensive than the 4th option, which is the one we took: night bus.

Looks like a regular bus, but inside, there are beds instead of seats

Now…we knew we wanted to go to Sapa, but we only really decided to go a week beforehand, just because I wasn’t sure of my holiday schedule. I took care of the hotel right away, and then we realized we needed to book the bus… But we’d waited too long. As a result, we ended up in tiny half beds that I’m convinced are actually cargo holds. Also, our heads were directly above the bus wheels, and we didn’t have plugs. It was a long 6 hours!

So there’s my intro to Sapa! I have at LEAST 2 more posts coming to show you more about the landscapes here and about the Hmong people!

Check back soon!

Guilin – Part 3: Rice Terraces

We are all moved into our new apartment!  It was a rough few days of scrubbing and painting and more scrubbing, but we’re here now, and very happy to be in our cozy new (mold-free) place!  We are about half unpacked, and are emptying our suitcases by priority.  First, I unpacked the tea 🙂  Tonight, it’s Oolong that we are enjoying.  It was purchased at one of the many shops along ZhongShan Lu in Xiamen during our holiday.  But before I can get to that, I must finish writing about Guilin!

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We stocked up in Xiamen. Sadly, this will probably not last us the year! haha!!!

Our 3rd day in Guilin was spent at the LongJi Rice Terraces.  Emily picked us up bright and early, and we took the 2.5 hour drive to one of the three minority villages there.  Our wonderful tour guide paid great attention to our personalities, and brilliantly brought us to the most calm of the 3 minority villages.  The village where Emily took us has only been open to the public for a year and a half, and (minus some satellite dishes) the people here are still living quite traditionally, nestled in these beautiful rice terraces.

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Like the rice terraces, these houses are built on an incline

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Intricate woodwork

As we walked through the village, we saw elderly women taking care of small children.  Emily explained that nearly everyone who is physically capable of working is either in a rice field or selling goods to tourists,so the elderly stay at home and watch the children. Nearly everyone in town was dressed in their ethnic group’s traditional clothing.  Both the colour of the fabric and the stitch work are unique to this minority group, and they still dress this way to honour their traditions (and probably because the tourists like it! haha…).

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Traditional costumes

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This picture I did take myself. We were far enough away that she couldn’t see us haha! She is picking chili peppers. They grow more than just rice in LongJi!

As we hiked through the village and up the mountain, we saw horses and dogs, and heard many roosters calling.  The town was quaint and both Dave and I were so happy to be away from the city, in this quiet, simple atmosphere.  The smell of cow manure was welcome and the cool mountain breeze was refreshing after the heat in Guilin city.  This particular day was the highlight of our stay in Guangxi Province.

The first animal friend we made at Longji.  He initially 'grumped' when Dave started to pet him, but then soon realized that he liked being pet haha!  He was very cute :)
The first animal friend we made at Longji. He initially ‘grumped’ when Dave started to pet him, but then soon realized that he liked being pet haha! He was very cute 🙂

There were roosters everywhere! This one was particularly beautiful
There were roosters everywhere! This one was particularly beautiful

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This group of dogs was terribly cute!

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They followed us down a little ways, probably hoping for some food. They might have also just been interested in seeing what the Lao Wai were up to!

As we hiked, Emily told us all about the rice fields and rice.  I’d never seen a rice plant before, so it was very neat to see how a food that sustains the better part of the world’s population is grown.  She showed us the difference between long grain and sticky rice plants.  She also explained that in the springtime, these fields fill with water.  The way these fields are built to be cascading down a mountainside was not a mere coincidence.  Gravity works as a brilliant irrigation tool, and seeing as how rice needs a great deal of water to grow, this method of growing the plant is very successful.  We arrived in LongJi just days before the crops are harvested, so we got to see them in their golden splendor.

A closer shot
A close-up of rice

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A view of the fields as we hiked up the mountain

Eventually Emily lead us to a set of stone stairs, going up to the peak of the mountain.  I was really able to appreciate the 11 flights of stairs I’ve been climbing daily to get to the apartment, because the trek wasn’t nearly as bad as it could have been!  The view was beautiful the whole way up, and I soaked in the quiet and the smells of nature.  Living in a city is exciting, but nothing beats fresh air and silence.

Our first view of the stairs.  At this point, I didn't realize how many of these things I'd have to climb!
Our first view of the stairs. At this point, I didn’t realize how many of these things I’d have to climb!

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The air was a bit thinner up here and we had to stop a few times on the way up to catch our breath!

Another break and photo op!

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I swear the stairs just got more beautiful a we continued the climb

The scene at the top of the mountain was amazing.  The two hours it took us to get up there were worth every step.  I took a video because no picture alone could do the scene justice, but the video is too large to upload 🙁  I’ll see if I can post it on facebook eventually.  For now, here are some pictures of that incredible view…

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No photo could possibly do this justice

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The walk down was just as nice as the walk up, though it took a lot less time.  We stopped for lunch in the village, and were treated to some herbal fruit tea, which I am now definitely addicted to.  We were served a bamboo dish (because Emily overheard me say that I love bamboo), and a taro dish (because Dave had never tried Taro…Emily is SO thoughtful!!) and finally, a chicken and mushroom dish, which was made with white meat, so that we didn’t need to worry about bones!   In China, chicken is chopped up, and you have to eat around shards of bone with your chopsticks.  All westerners hated it.  Emily knows her clients so well…I love that girl!!!  Also served at lunch was a special rice that is roasted in bamboo, as well as pig blood soup.  Emily originally ordered it for her and her husband (because she still hadn’t learned that we’ll eat anything), but was happy to share and let us have a try.  It wasn’t something I’d necessarily order myself, but if it’s ever on a table in front of me, I’d try it again!!

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A neat shot I got while coming down from the peak. Emily took a different route because she knows Dave hates seeing the same thing twice (it became an ongoing joke throughout the trip)

Dave had fallen behind after seeing a line of ants moving up the mountain.  I turned around to see if he was coming and saw this incredible view.  One of my favorite pics of the day.
Dave had fallen behind after seeing a line of ants moving up the mountain. I turned around to see if he was coming and saw this incredible view. One of my favorite pics of the day.

I'm officially addicted to this tea!  I brought 20 of these fruit back with us, and I'm already looking to see where I can find it in Guiyang for when I run out!!
I’m officially addicted to this tea! I brought 20 of these fruit back with us, and I’m already looking to see where I can find it in Guiyang for when I run out!!

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Pig Blood Soup…the stuff floating in there is congealed blood…

Roasted rice in bamboo :)
Roasted rice in bamboo 🙂

Well, I had originally intended to finish writing about Guangxi tonight, but it would appear I’ve already gone over my word count goal (I try to keep my posts around 1000 words so I don’t bore anyone), and I still have more to write, so I suppose there will be a part 4 to this part of the trip!  I hope I haven’t lost any of you yet!!  Thanks to everyone that’s been following me and especially to those of you who have written such nice and encouraging things in the comment section. This project means so much to me, and I’m so glad some of you are enjoying it as well 🙂